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Apparel Glossary
 
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W Y
 

Cable stitch: A knit fabric stitch that produces a design that looks like a heavy cord- common in sweaters and hosiery.

Calendered: A flat, smooth, glossy finish applied to the fabric by passing it through heavy rollers under pressure and usually heat. Cire, chintz, moire, & glazing are examples of calendered finishes. 

Calico: A light weight, plain weave fabric usually cotton or cotton blend typically printed with small, all over, brightly colored designs. Used frequently in aprons, quilts & curtains.

Cambric: A plain weave, traditionally light weight cotton fabric with a luster on the surface . Used for handkerchiefs underwear, shirts, aprons , tablecloths. 

Candlewick: A tufted pile fabric with a fuzzy surface that looks like chenille . It is made by looping a heavy plied yarn on a muslin base then cutting the loops. Used for bedspreads, robes, draperies.

Canton flannel: A heavy, warm, strong cotton or cotton blend fabric with a twill face and a brushed back . Used for nightwear, underwear, gloves, linings. Originally produced in Canton China. 

Canvas /Duck: A strong, firm, tightly woven, durable fabric usually of cotton but sometimes of linen, hemp or other fibers. It is usually plain weave but sometimes with a crosswise rib. It is produced in a variety of weights & used in a variety of products such as tents, awnings, sails, upholstery, footwear, jackets, trousers.

Cape net: a stiff heavy net which can be shaped when wet and holds that shape when dried . Used for hats. 

Carded: A yarn in which the fibers have been partially straightened and cleaned prior to spinning. The yarn is generally coarser and more uneven than a combed yarn.

Cardigan -full: A variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with 2 sets of needles There is alternate knitting and tucking on one course then tucking and knitting on the next course. The fabric has the same look on both sides as every wale on both sides has both a held loop and a tuck loop. Also called polka rib. 

Cardigan- half: A variation of a 1x1 rib stitch with knitting & tucking in alternate courses on one set of needles. The construction on the back is the reverse of the face . Also called royal rib.

Casement cloth: a general term for sheer, lightweight, open weave fabrics used for curtains and backing for heavy drapery.

Cationic: A type of dye used on acrylic or on modified polyester or modified nylon yarn . Often used to achieve cross dyed effects: Cationic dyeable yarn is woven in a pattern with regular yarn in the same fabric. The pattern becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in 2 baths, one for each of the types of yarn.

Cavalry twill: A sturdy woven fabric with a steep pronounced double twill line . Often of cotton or wool but may be any fiber.

Challis: a soft, lightweight, plain weave fabric with good drape. Often used for printed dresses and skirts. Most commonly wool or rayon but may be of cotton or other spun fibers.

Chambray: A lightweight, plain weave fabric, with a colored warp and white weft . Usually plain but may be in stripes, checks, or other patterns. Often used in shirts, dresses children's clothes. 

Chameleon: a 3 tone effect that changes with the angle of view . It is achieved by using a warp yarn of one color and double weft yarns of 2 different colors. It is often found in taffetas , poplins or failles of silk or made made filament yarns 

Chamois-like: a hand suggesting the soft pliable leather from the skin of the chamois goat.

Chantilly lace: A bobbin lace on a fine net ground characterized by delicate motifs of scrolls, vines, branches, and flowers outlined by a flat (cordonnet) yarn. Often in black. Originally made in Chantilly France.

Charmeuse: A soft lightweight woven satin fabric with good drape. It is made with high twist yarns, has a semi-lustrous face and a dull back . Often used for blouses, intimate apparel. 

Check: a small pattern of squares or rectangles. It may be printed, yarn dyed , cross dyed or woven into the fabric ( as a dobby or jacquard).

Cheesecloth: see Gauze/Cheesecloth.

Chenille: 1. A yarn with fuzzy pile protruding from all sides . It has a velvety caterpillar -like appearance . ( The term chenille is derived from the French word for caterpillar) 2. A fabric made with chenille yarn.

Cheviot: 1.A rough surfaced fabric of wool with a heavy nap. Used for coating. 2. A loosely woven tweed fabric with a shaggy texture . Cheviot was originally made from the wool of the cheviot sheep in the hills at the bordering England and Scotland.

Chevron . a design which incorporates herringbone elements of zigzag stripes or joined V's 

Chiffon: A lightweight , sheer, plain weave fabric with a dull surface, a soft hand , and good drape. It is made with fine high twisted yarns and has an even or close to even number of threads per inch in the warp and weft. Originally made in silk but now found in polyester and other man-made filament yarns. Used in dresses blouses, scarves, veils. 

Children's: refers to designs suitable for the children's market. 

Chinchilla: A thick, heavy, pile fabric with surface curls or nubs, originally made to suggest chinchilla fur . It is often double faced. It may be woven or knit and is often used as coating.

Chino: a sturdy, medium weight, twill fabric usually of cotton or a cotton blend. It has often been used for summer weight military uniforms, sportswear and work clothes. It is often found in khaki and tan colors.

Chinoiserie: a old Chinese decorative style still used in textiles. 

Chintz: 1. A glazed solid or printed fabric usually of cotton or a cotton blend 2. A plain weave fabric, usually cotton, with a multicolor print which may or may not be glazed. If it is unglazed it is called cretonne.

Chirimen: a Japanese term describing a dull crepe fabric made with a course yarn. Originally of silk but now found in man made filaments such as polyester. 

Circular knit: refers to fabrics knit on a circular knitting machine, i.e. one which has its needles arranged in a circle thus producing the fabric in tubular form . The fabrics may be sold tubular or slit and sold open width. A circular knitting machine may be used to produce full width fabrics or narrow shaped components such as for hosiery.

Cire: a finishing process that produces a high gloss on the surface on the fabric by passing it through heavy rollers (calendering) . Fabrics made of thermoplastic fibers like nylon or polyester are cired by calendering with heat and pressure alone. Other fabrics like rayons or silks are calendered with wax or other compounds.

Clip dot /Clip spot: a design effect created on a woven fabric by the use of extra yarns which are woven into the fabric at a certain spot then allowed to float over the fabric to the next spot. The float threads are later trimmed but often are allowed to protrude from the surface of the fabric as part of the design.

Cloque/ Blister fabric: A general term to describe fabrics with a blister (pucker) on the surface. The blister may be created by several different methods such as printing with caustic soda or other chemicals, by weaving together yarns under different tension, or by weaving together yarns with different shrinkage properties.

Cluny lace: A heavy bobbin lace using thick yarns usually of cotton or linen. Most often done in geometric patterns . Used for curtains doilies and trim for apparel.

Coarse : having thick yarns. 

Coated: refers to the application of material such as plastic resin, wax, oil, varnish or lacquer to the surface of the fabric . Application methods include dipping, spraying, brushing, calendering or knife coating . Coating is often applied to make a fabric water repellent or waterproof but may be done simply to alter the hand or appearance of the fabric. Polyurethane, acrylic and PVC resins are common types of coating.

Combed: refers to a process in the manufacture of cotton and other staple yarns. The fiber is combed to remove foreign matter and the shorter, undesirable fibers, leaving longer, more desirable fibers that become straightened & aligned in parallel before spinning into yarn. Combed yarns are finer, cleaner and more even than those that are not combed.

Compact: refers to a tight, dense fabric with a firm hand.

Conversational: whimsical designs or designs with a theme.

Cool: a smooth, slick, hand generally associated with synthetics.

Coolmax brand: A Du Pont brand of polyester with good wicking qualities allowing for better moisture evaporation . Used in activewear.

Corded: 1. a fabric with a surface rib effect resulting from the use of a heavier or plied yarn together with finer yarns. 2. A yarn made from two or more finer yarns twisted together.

Cordura brand: A Du Pont brand of air textured nylon yarn. Used in luggage and outerwear.

Corduroy: A strong, durable, woven fabric characterized by vertical cut pile stripes or cords with a velvet- like nap. Corduroy is classified by the number of wales or cords to the inch. It is traditionally of cotton but may be cotton blends or other fibers as well. It is common in men's women's and children's apparel especially trousers.

Cotton-like: refers to a fabric that feels like cotton.

Covert: a medium to heavy twill fabric with a contrast in color between the twill line and the ground . Usually has a mottled or flecked appearance caused by using a warp yarn with 2 or more colors twisted together. The filling generally is of a single color.

Crash: A coarse woven fabric with a rough surface, made with thick uneven yarns. Used for table linens , draperies, backings.

Crepe: A fabric characterized by an all over crinkled, pebbly, or puckered surface. The appearance may be a result of the use of high twist yarns , embossing , chemical treatment or a crepe weave.

Crepe-back satin: A two faced fabric in which one side is crepe and the other satin. Also called satin-back crepe.

Crepe de chine: A lightweight plain weave fabric usually of silk or man made filament yarns with a slight crepe texture produces by using high twist yarns . Used in blouses and dresses.

Crepey: Refers to a fabric with a pebble like texture.

Crepon/Yoryu: a fabric with a pleat-like crinkle effect in the warp ( lengthwise) direction of the fabric, made with high twist yarns.

Cretonne: A plain weave fabric, usually cotton, with a neutral ground and brightly colored floral designs, similar to chintz but with a dull finish and sometimes heavier. Used for draperies and upholstery.

Crewel: a type of embroidery using a loosely twisted 2 ply worsted yarn.

Crinkled: an uneven, wrinkle, or puckered effect on the fabric surface which can be created by a variety of mechanical or chemical finishes, or through the use of high twist yarns.

Crinoline: A stiff, open weave fabric, usually heavily sized. Used mainly as lining or interlining.

Crisp: describes fabrics with a smooth, clean surface, good body, and a relatively firm hand which may make noise when rustled.

Crochet lace: Lace handmade with a crochet hook usually medallion patterns on a mesh ground.

Cross cut : refers to a corduroy fabric which has the pile cut in a weftwise direction, forming squares or rectangles on the surface.

Cross dyed: A method of coloring fabric made with strategically placed yarns of 2 or more different fibers. A pre-planned effect becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in different dye baths, one for each of the types of yarn. For example a predominately rayon fabric may have a polyester yarn woven into it in a stripe pattern then dyed in a bath to which only the rayon is sensitive. The polyester stripe will be made to appear since it remains undyed. The stripe may then be colored by dyeing it again in a bath of a different color to which only the polyester is sensitive. Heather effects may be achieved by mixing more than one fiber in a single yarn then cross dyeing.

Cross dyed & overprinted : a cross dyed fabric which has also had a design printed on it.

Crushed: a finish that creates a planned irregular disturbance on the surface of the fabric, usually by mechanical means.

Cut Velvet: jacquard fabric consisting of a velvet design on a plain ground. Also called beaded velvet. Used in evening wear and home furnishings.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W Y
   
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