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Apparel
Glossary
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B C
D E
F G H
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K L
M N
O P Q R
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Paisley:
A design originating in Asia, traditionally
in a teardrop shape with a curving point containing
and surrounded by many small abstract and geometric
designs.
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Panama:
a plain weave fabric traditionally of
cotton or wool. Used for summer suitings and dresses.
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Panne:
A fabric which has had the surface flattened
by heavy roller pressure giving it luster . Often done
on pile fabrics, knits, or satins.
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Panne
velvet : a lightweight velvet that has had
the pile flattened in one direction.
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Paper-like:
refers to fabric with a crisp, noisy
hand that suggests paper.
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Parachute
cloth: lightweight, strong, compact fabric
used for outerwear, luggage and parachutes.
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Patchwork: various colors or designs combined
together in one design . May be print or yarn dye.
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Peach
skin: a soft, sueded finish resulting from
sanding or chemical treatment of the fabric.
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Peached:
a soft sueded hand that suggests the
downy skin of a peach.
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Pearlized
coating: a fabric coating with a surface luster
suggestive of a pearl . Used a a face for outerwear
fabrics.
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Pearls:
Referring to fabric embellished with
pearls.
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Pebble
crepe: see Moss Crepe/ Pebble Crepe.
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Pebbly: refers to a fabric surface with a grainy,
crepey texture.
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Percale: a smooth, closely woven, plain weave
fabric often of cotton. Often used as a print cloth
for apparel and sheets.
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Perforated/punched:
holes or small motifs are punched out
of the fabric with a metal roller forming a design or
pattern.
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Petite
point: a small, slanting, needlepoint stitch
that form even lines of a solid background . Used for
pillows, slipcovers.
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Pigment
dyed: an insoluble colorant is applied to
the fabric as a paste or emulsion, heat cured and bound
to the fabric with resins or binders. The curing process
can be controlled so the color will fade after washing,
giving the garments a used worn look.
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Pigment
printed: an insoluble colorant is printed on
the fabric as a paste or emulsion, heat cured and bound
to the fabric with resins or binders. Allows for the
printing of fabrics with fiber blends that would be
otherwise difficult or expensive to print.
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Pima
cotton: a fine long staple cotton, originally
derived by crossing American and Egyptian species. Named
for Pima County Arizona. Used in fine shirtings and
dress fabrics.
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Pincord/Pinwale: Fabric with a very narrow wale or rib.
Used in describing piques, corduroys or other ribbed
fabrics. Also called baby cord.
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Pinpoint
oxford: an oxford weave fabric using fine yarns
resulting in a small oxford texture. Usually cotton
. Used for fine shirtings.
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Pinstripe:
a design using fine line vertical stripes,
usually light color stripes on a dark ground.
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Pique:
A fabric characterized by a prominent,
all-over geometric texture. It is most commonly woven
on a dobby loom but it is also produced as a double
knit. The most common textures are cords ( either vertical
or horizontal) , birdseye, waffle, honeycomb and bullseye.
Produced in a variety of weights and fibers.
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Plaid: a pattern of stripes and bars that
cross each other at right angles.
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Plain
stitch: a knitting stitch that shows a series
of lengthwise ribs on the face( from the neck of the
yarn loops), and cross wise loops on the back ( from
the head of the yarn loops).
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Plain
weave: The simplest form of weaving in which
a pick ( filling yarn) passes over the first end ( warp
yarn), under the second and on continuously, over one
end and under the next. The next pick alternates , passing
under the first end, over the second , and on continuously
under and over each end . Each filling row alternates,
thus extending the fabric. Also called a one up one
down weave.
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Plied:
refers to a yarn consisting of 2 or
more single yarns twisted together.
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Plisse:
A fabric with a puckered or pleated
effect resulting from printing the fabric with caustic
soda . The printed part of the fabric shrinks, causing
the unprinted part to pucker.
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Plush:
1. a fabric with a thick cut pile, used
in apparel, draperies, upholstery, stuffed toys . May
be woven or knit. 2. Brushed or sheared
fabrics are also sometimes referred to as plush.
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Plush
hand: refers to a thick, resistant, soft luxurious
hand.
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Point
d'Esprit: a machine made net with small all-over
dots.
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Pointelle:a knit fabric with a pattern of holes
or openings made by using transfer stitches.
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Polished
cotton: a cotton fabric with a luster. The
luster may be due to the weave (often satin), or from
application of a calendered finish, or both. The degree
of luster can be moderate or bright.
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Pongee:
1. a plain weave, light to medium weight
silk fabric with slubs and nubs on the surface. Often
found in a natural light tan color.
2. a plain weave light to medium weight fabric with
a smooth surface . May be of cotton or manufactured
fibers such as polyester . Used for dresses, blouses,
pajamas, linings.
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Ponte
Di Roma: weft knitted, interlock based, double
jersey structure . Means "roman bridge" which
is suggested by the arrangement of loops . The fabric
looks the same on both sides.
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Poodle
cloth: a fabric with a curly or loop pile resembling
the coat of a poodle dog.
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Poor
boy: an inexpensive rib knit usually 2x3
or 3x1 in a fine to medium yarn.
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Popcorn:
a fabric utilizing yarn with thick spots
suggesting popcorn. Usually a knit but may be woven.
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Poplin:
a plain weave fabric with a fine, crosswise
rib, the result of using finer warp yarns and heavier
weft yarns and a higher thread count in the warp than
the weft . Usually medium weight. Made in a variety
of fibers but common in cotton and cotton blends . A
common shirting fabric.
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Pre-shrunk:
The fabric is allowed to shrink during
finishing to reduce residual shrinkage in the final
product.
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Prepared
for printing /dyeing : fabric
which has been made ready for dyeing or printing by
performing all preliminary processes on the greige such
as singeing, desizing, scouring, and bleaching.
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Printed
& overdyed: refers to fabrics which have been first
printed then overdyed allowing the design to show through.
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PU
coated: refers to a fabric which has been coated
with polyurethane, usually to make it waterproof but
sometimes to give a firmer hand.
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Pucker
a blister or puffed effect on the surface
of the fabric . It may be the result of chemical treatment
of the fabric or the result of using different yarns,
yarns under different tension, or yarns of different
shrinkage in one fabric.
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Pucker
embroidery: fabric which has been embroidered in
a such a way that the stitching purposefully causes
a crinkle or pucker in the fabric.
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Puff
printing::
printing done with a thick pigment, resulting in a raised
motif with a rubbery hand. Sometimes called rubber printing.
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Quilted:
Two or more layers of fabric which have
been stitched through, often with batting . The stitching
forms a pattern, most commonly a square or diamond shape.
Used for apparel, bedspreads, sleeping bags. Thermoplastic
fibers such as polyester or nylon are sometimes quilted
without thread by using a heat bonding method . The
heat effectively melts or welds the fabric at the point
of application.
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Rack
stitch: a knitting stitch that produces a herringbone
effect with a rib back.
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Raschel:
refers to knit fabric made a a Raschel
machine, a warp knitting machine capable of a wide variety
of intricate designs, various surface textures, and
open work effects.
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Raschel
lace: a lace fabric knit on a Raschel machine.
Usually moderately priced.
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Ratine:
a plain weave , loosely constructed
fabric with a rough, nubby texture resulting from the
use of ratine yarn, a knotted, curly, plied yarn. Used
for drapery, dresses and women's sportswear.
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Reactive
dyed: water soluble dyes that bond well
to cellulosic and nylon fibers. Provide good brightness
and colorfastness.
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Rep: a plain weave fabric with ridges in
the filling. Used for drapery, upholstery, neckties,
robes.
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Resin
treated: a fabric that has been treated with
a synthetic film-forming polymer (resin) . This may
be done to make the fabric firmer, heavier, more stable,
to add wrinkle resistance, to reduce shrinkage or to
create surface effect such as embossing or glazing.
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Resist
printed: a
chemical is printed on certain areas of the fabric to
make those areas resistant to dye. Allows for the printing
of small or fine motifs in the design..
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Rhinestones: faceted, highly refractive, imitation
gemstones that are attached to the fabric for decorative
purposes.
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Rib:
1. any fabric with a cord or ridge effect
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2. a knit fabric made with plain stitches alternating
with purl stitches. Rib knits have natural stretch properties.
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Ring
spun: a yarn spinning method in which roving
( a thin strand of fiber with very little twist) is
fed to a "traveler" with rotates around the
edge of a ring. Inside the ring is a faster rotating
bobbin . The process simultaneously twists the roving
into yarn and winds it around the bobbin. Ring spun
yarns are generally stronger than open end yarns.
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Ripstop:
a woven fabric with corded yarns spaced
at regular intervals in both the warp and filling, forming
squares on the surface of the fabric. Originally intended
so a tear in the fabric would not spread. Used mainly
for outerwear and active wear.
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Roller
printed: a method of printing by passing the
fabric over metal rollers on which the design has been
engraved. One roller is used for each color. Used for
printing long runs with good register and a clear, sharp
design.
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Rose
point lace: a needlepoint lace with floral patterns
connected by bars. Similar to Venitian lace but with
smaller patterns.
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Rotary
screen printed: In
screen printing a separate screen is created for each
color . The open mesh part of the screen corresponds
to the area to be printed in that color. The areas where
color is not to pass through are blocked. Dye paste
is forced through the open mesh area with a squeegee.
In rotary screen printing the squeegees are contained
within cylindrical screens aligned one after the other,
and the fabric moves continuously. Rotary printing is
a much faster process than flat screen printing but
the pattern repeat is limited by the circumference of
the cylinders.
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Rubber-like:
having a hand suggesting rubber.
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